2180 Turbo

Friday, 30-Jun-2000 17:05:16

Message:

204.210.185.132 writes:

After building the headers and intake so the turbo will fit under the back end of my Manx body, I finally got the CB

Injected turbo motor running. In the process I found out a few things,albeit a little sooner then I wanted to.

#1)You don't want the hose from the wastegate to the manifold to come off.

#2) 92mm cylinders don't like when the hose comes off.

#3) 92mm cylinders also don't like 25lbs. of boost.

I was going to wait until winter to slip in a set of 90.5's bfore I turned up the boost, but the big crack in the #2 cylinder

sort of altered my plans. I should have a 2110 on the road tomorrow.

Jerry

Jerry Despaltro

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Replies:

I would think the 90.5s don't like it either. (n/t) (Derrick from NC) (30-Jun-2000 18:11:57)

Sounds familiar (John Connolly) (30-Jun-2000 18:44:10)

And your engine looks AWSOME too!! :-) (n/t) (Morten(Norway)) (30-Jun-2000 19:38:43)

Thanx, Morton (n/t) (Jerry Despaltro) (30-Jun-2000 23:19:23)

Bore it out and use 94s then you'll have a big cheese eatin smile on your face (n/t) (Gary Cooper) (01-Jul-2000 07:19:43)

Re: You can poersleeve 92s at the top to 94 size and they still fit in the case. also (Mark H) (02-Jul-2000 02:54:09)

Power sleeving (Jerry Despaltro) (02-Jul-2000 10:11:08)

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Sounds familiar

Friday, 30-Jun-2000 18:44:10

216.190.8.5 writes:

I had a 2110 (my old "street" car) with my turbo on it. I accidentally switched the wastegate hoses when I installed the

engine. Imagine my suprise (I've told this story on the CLF before) when I hit 50 pounds of boost!) JESUS CHRIST!!!!

I did it at the track, and didnt' floor it til' mid 2nd gear. I went thru the lights at 120 (1/8 mile) with a SLOW time

(launched easy). They couldn't race for 10 minutes cause' there was so much smoke on the track. Needless to say, the guy

I was racing stopped halfway thru HIS pass, since he couldnt' see! :-D

split 3 cylinders (90.5s), burned all the pistons, but the lower end was OK!

I got an education and a good story out of it at least!

John Connolly

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Re: You can poersleeve 92s at the top to 94 size and they still fit in the case. also

Sunday, 02-Jul-2000 02:54:09

216.244.12.212 writes:

You`ll have to cut your heads to 94 size but they have to come off anyway. Obviously if your boost line falls off again

nothing will save you but the power sleves help the heads stay seated and will keep the cyls from cracking under light

detonation. also the 92s will be thicker that stock 90.5s.

Mark H

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Power sleeving

Sunday, 02-Jul-2000 10:11:08

204.210.185.132 writes:

Mark,

I thought about power sleeves but I don't know how power sleeves would hold up to street driving.

Is anyone running Power sleeves on the street?

Jerry

Jerry Despaltro

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Re: HELP!!!! Regarding Turbos you should read these articles.

Friday, 22-Sep-00 08:22:22

203.41.44.249 writes:

Hi All

Sorry about the earlier message, a slip of the shift button. Regarding Turbos you should read these articles. http://www.clubvw.org.au/illawara.htm

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0090/article.html Also this link has a great article about general water - air inter cooling which is great for a Beetle with its lack of room.

http://www.clubvw.org.au/leigh_harris.htm at this link read about a guy that has already done it to an air cooled bug and his oil temp is never over 90 c. You can have turbo power and reliablitly with intercooling.

Regards Steve Carter

Steve Carter

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turbo mis-info will someone please CLEAR UP the confusing post 3/4 down the page about turbo boost/relation to comp. ratio. does

anybody have a correct formula?? i know what george stated must be a mistake cause i turbo'd my 1600 stock injected 78 convertible

bug, and when running 14# of boost w/94 octane the thing HAULED MAJOR ASS!!! hills i came up 60 mph w/o turbo i was topping at

90+ not even punched[it was too lean at top and pinged bigtime! THERE IS NO WAY ONE COMP. point would get me even close to

that power....please reply thanx dennis

Tuesday, 10-Oct-00 23:07:57

199.224.74.144 writes:

dennis/valley vw

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[SORRY I SCREWED UP THE POST ABOVE W/ CAPLOCK] DENNIS (n/t) (10-Oct-00 23:13:17)

Here you go Dennis (John Connolly) (10-Oct-00 23:24:18)

Re: Hey look the truth, pay attention kids. Dennis I got a new HVWs the other day and saw you won Super Pro at Maple Grove, good job. (n/t) (10-Oct-00 23:39:15)

OOps that were me (n/t) (Tracy "I cant cut a good light today to save my life") (10-Oct-00 23:41:29)

one more thing (John Connolly) (11-Oct-00 00:15:06)

Thanks to John for clearing up my muddled oversimplification... (n/t) (george brown) (11-Oct-00 10:50:19)

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Here you go Dennis

Tuesday, 10-Oct-00 23:24:18

216.190.9.248 writes:

an aspirated engine "theoretically" operating at 100% VE will use it's displacement every 2 RPMs (4 stroke engine). This is at

atmospheric pressure of 14.7 psi (air pressure at sea level). A turbo engine running 14.7psi BOOST means the engine operating at 100%

VE will have TWICE the air/fuel as it did when it was aspirated, thereby doubling the engine's "actual" compression ratio.

Example: a 2L engine at 5K RPMs and 8:1 compression, gets 1/2 the air/fuel that the same engine turbocharged gets at 14.7psi boost. At

25 psi boost, it's burning 2.7 X the amount of air&fuel as it was aspirated. This is calculated by (14.7 + 25)/14.7.

Now you can consider compression. A 9:1 engine aspirated runs at 9:1. A 7:1 turbo engine running at 10psi boost, has ((10 +

14.7)/14.7)X 7:1 = 11.76:1 operating compression. The same engine at 25 psi boost is ((25 + 14.7)/14.7) X 7:1 = 18.9:1! :-O

More info: aspirated engines CAN achieve more than 100%VE, especially 2 strokes (like 180%!), that's why tuned intake/exhaust is so

important. And, turbo engines don't necessarily run 100%VE for various reasons.

I tend to like high compression low boost turbos, since the throttle response is phenominal. Low compression high boost engines make

tons of power when they finally get going, but are REALLY sluggish until they get there. I run 9:1 on my car (24 psi boost), but ran 8:1 in

street trim (8-10 psi boost) on pump gas.

hope these figures help you out Dennis! Remember, besides the math, there is a lot more to it!

John Connolly

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ne more thing

Wednesday, 11-Oct-00 00:15:06

216.190.10.133 writes:

don't confuse compression, or "seen" compression, with power.

Compression does build power, but with a turbo, at 14.7psi boost (for example), you are ACTUALLY running 2X as much air and fuel

in the engine, which equates to more power. High compression engines (aspirated) are still only ingesting their displacement every other

revolution, while turbos exceed that by force-feeding.

John Connolly

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turbo questions Saturday, 06-Jan-01 09:52:09 63.21.37.51 writes: i've finally decided,im going turbo,i was reading the carcraftinc.com site and loved their kit so much i ordered it,but have some doubts about their recomendations.my specks are,2110,120 cam,9.0 com,eliminator heads 42x36 oval ports,1.1 rockers,44idfs,i 1/2 merged,all this is on a 1200 lbs street rail,they recomended a t-03,1 1/2 exhaust,40 weber. i told them i thought ineeded a t-04 do to the fact that my engine being a 2.0 litter it should make enough power down low to benefit from the t-04,they told they would do what i told them but from their previous knowledge the t-o3 with the 1 1/2 would work better for me,what do you turbo gurus think,which combo?t-04,weber 45,1 5/8 or t-03,weber 40,1 1/2 header.i also asked them about the msd retard module to retard under boost,they said it is not needed that they have boosted engines to 28psi and have not used it,what do you think?also what is the recomended retard if applicable,1 degree retard per lb of boost?any other imput apreciated,thanks. lazaro

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Actually they are right. A TO3 is what you want because you aren't going to be able to run that much boost with that compression ratio. The lower the compression ratio the higher you can run the boost safely. You could run that compression with a watercooled because the water cooling is much more effiecient. (n/t) (Chuck) (06-Jan-01 10:44:20) Re: turbo questions:yes im going to lower my comp anyways,i know im not supose to run that much comp with turbo,thats just my engine is set know. (n/t) (lazaro) (06-Jan-01 11:23:12)

why t-03? you can get a t-04 sized for your application. remember jim hagethorns 1915 12 second monster running a t-04 and a 40mm dcoe? i would have called kawell. most other companies are way to conservitive on there recomondations. the also sell alot of stuff to the honda guys as well. (n/t) (bergboy) (06-Jan-01 11:46:21)

12's and a turbo that is pretty slow for forced induction. I would think 10's with a turbo is more like it. (n/t) (chuck) (07-Jan-01 11:47:44)

I guarantee if you call Kawell they will tell you the same thing. I talked to them and for a 2175 with a turbo they said to use a TO3 with a .80 turbine housing. If you were to run 30 lbs of boost and 8500 then you would need the TO4. Remember the bigger the turbo the harder it is to spool up. (n/t) (chuck) (07-Jan-01 11:43:19)

chuck, i think someone is confused, jims motor has a t-04b sized by kawell. why would you be told something totally different? remember jims motor was a 1915 with a 40mm dcoe w/32mm venturies no 8500 rpms there. you can get a t-o4 sized just like a t-03. only differance is the housing. t-o3 is a 3 bolt and the other is a four bolt exhaust. (n/t) (bergboy) (07-Jan-01 20:55:37)

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STF turbo exhaust question #5 hehehe Saturday, 06-Jan-01 22:27:59 206.100.232.86 writes: anybody ever use a baja exhaust for turbo pull through application.....Bugpack # 2056-10, I know I'll have to modify it but is it a good starting point, i.e. will the collector and tubes fit in the engine compartment or do they stick out to far...Thanks Eric

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I've had suggested to me to try that, and I've done some thought, and research about it, and I came to the conclusion that it's prolly a better idea just to try and find a used turbo header. It will make your life much easier, and ontop of that you know that it will fit =) I'm searching for a Kawell style one, so that I can have some room to work on stuff in the engine bay. Good luck with your project! (n/t) (Jimmie J. ) (06-Jan-01 22:50:17)

good idea, but have you ever seen how thin the bugpack tubing is?? (n/t) (bergboy) (06-Jan-01 23:11:17)

Re: STF turbo exhaust question #5 hehehe (jt) (06-Jan-01 23:22:51)

Re: Bugpack headers>>>> ([email protected]) (06-Jan-01 23:42:44)

Where can I find out more about turbocharged 4cyl. mustangs??? How common are they??? they're running draw through setups? COOL (n/t) (Jimmie J. ) (07-Jan-01 18:16:20)

I would ask Tracy @ tgfab.com...he seems to know a tonne! (n/t) (Panel) (07-Jan-01 18:47:43)

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Scrapyard trip update... didn't get to go today =( Saturday, 06-Jan-01 17:05:21 172.152.134.128 writes: I got called into work today, so I didn't get out the the yard at all. I'm going tommarow... I'm positive that I can get a turbo from a 2.2L dodge though... What kind of turbo's are they, dodge manufactured? Were they all fuel injected, which mean's I'll have to do some work on the turbo? Or were there some draw through setups? If I could find a draw through setup on a car, I can get the carb and everything, which would make my life a little easier, and it would also get the motor moving along a bit faster. My dad (crew chief...heh heh heh)was asking some questions... chiefly the only one I couldn't answer, and he couldn't figure out was: " where does the turbo draw the oil from in the VW setup? " I was wondering too? I'm still looking for a used parts that are within my budget... (approx. $400) Thanks, Later On \X/ Jimmie J.

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Jimmy it does not "draw oil". It needs oil fed under pressure. You need to tap into the main gallery off the pump where your idiot light goes. Check MufflerMike.com and he shows you where. (n/t) (Marty) (06-Jan-01 17:25:50)

Oil...>>> (Panel) (06-Jan-01 21:29:18)

Not exactly Panel, Oil can be returned thru a fitting on the valve cover. That's how its done on the hideaway turbo systems. (n/t) (Rick) (06-Jan-01 21:48:29)

That's what I said...read my post again! (n/t) (Panel) (06-Jan-01 22:20:46)

Panel, Read Your post again! It says you have to use an electric fuel pump! Not true in low boost applications! (n/t) (Rick) (07-Jan-01 10:03:40)

Jimmy those turbos that dodge made all had bad bearings in them.They were garret turbos but really weird housings on them. Do research before you go and waste 400 bucks on a pile of junk. (n/t) (07-Jan-01 11:32:29)

I've done plenty of research about this...> (Jimmie J. ) (07-Jan-01 18:25:24)

btw, thanks for the warning! I wasn't really looking into one of those anyway. Are the garret turbo's on the volvo's the same way??? (n/t) (Jimmie J. ) (07-Jan-01 18:28:18)

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Oil...>>>

Saturday, 06-Jan-01 21:29:18

24.69.48.15 writes:

And then after the pressure it needs to run into the motor again somewhere above the oil level like the valve cover or the fuel pump.You'll have to use a electric fuel pump and a special fuel pump block-off that lets it flow back into the case.

Panel

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Mark H & turbo. Tuesday, 09-Jan-01 00:09:55 24.69.48.15 writes: Hi Mark H. So when can some of us far away CLFers get a look at your turbo car. And when can we get some specs on the motor. I'm only asking 'cause I can't wait for your next magazine layout on your COOL car and I'll personally never make it down to any DQ meetings(to far away).Is this the same motor you had in the car just with some BOOST in the BOX? Let us outsiders know.We're feelin' left out. Thanks, Panel

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The engine is a 76x94 that Mike Herbert built and it has 5 lbs of boost. (Matt Harris) (09-Jan-01 03:12:00)

Re: Panel. If I ever get the pix to my buddies daughter ,she will put them on a web site for all to see... ( Mark H) (09-Jan-01 14:19:01)

Re: Mark H & turbo. (bobby) (10-Jan-01 01:05:53)

Re: Re: 76x94,chrome moly 10mm studs. (n/t) ( Mark H) (10-Jan-01 14:55:59)

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The engine is a 76x94 that Mike Herbert built and it has 5 lbs of boost.

Tuesday, 09-Jan-01 03:12:00

134.139.23.122 writes:

It has a 650 cfm carb on it and a K10 cam. That thing sounds friggin BAD. Definitely the highlight of the DQ gathering. Herb's just a cool dude for sure, and his car is just that. Hope he doesn't mind me spilling the beans about the engine :)

Matt Harris

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Re: Panel. If I ever get the pix to my buddies daughter ,she will put them on a web site for all to see...

Tuesday, 09-Jan-01 14:19:01

216.244.30.240 writes:

The motor in the car right now is my brothers . Its a Bugpack 76mmx 94 cimas with stock rings. FK10 cam set stright up and Comp eliminator heads with 44x37.5 and lots of porting . 1 5/8 junk turbo header ,EF60 Rayjay turbo and a 650 holley double pumper. It also has a dean lowery double disc clutch set up with a 1700lb Kennedy pressure plate,early style. You might quiz my brother Mike for more specs. It should be at the Carlesbad race on the 21st so we`ll see how it runs then.

Thanks for the interest in my car I`ll keep everyone posted on how it does.

PS Right now it has 5 lbs of boost and runs on 92 Shell gas.

Mark H

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Head Studs Wednesday, 10-Jan-01 00:44:45 63.255.53.164 writes: I am in a dilema. I have 2176 turbo motor and I broke a head stud (which I found out was stock 8mm, not chromoly). I need autocraft tapered studs and can't find them. Apparently autocraft doesnt make them anymore. So I have to be stuck with 8mm chromoly studs (94mm bore) and leave the boost at 10 lbs. not very fun! Anyone know where I can get these auotcraft studs? Bobby

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Just out of curiosity, what kind of boost were you running, compression, head type, bla bla bla.??? (n/t) (Muffler Mike) (10-Jan-01 01:01:14)

Re: Head Studs (Bobby) (10-Jan-01 01:18:56)

www.raceware.com has chromoly 8mm head studs, guaranteed for life, expansion rate unknown, they also sell some autocraft/pauter special length kits, whatever that is, keep us posted on what happens. (n/t) (dan) (10-Jan-01 03:25:15)

bzzt! sorry, that's www.raceware-fasteners.com/ (n/t) (dan) (10-Jan-01 03:26:59)

Wow, if your running around 20 lbs of boost, your gonna need some 10mm studs, not 8mm (n/t) (Anthony S.) (10-Jan-01 01:23:38)

I have a 94 bored case iam stuck with 8mm or these autocraft studs.10lbs will be ok,just dont whant to be limited @10lbs. (n/t) (Bobby) (10-Jan-01 01:37:43)

There is someone who can install 10mm inserts in cases that have already been bored for 94's. James Lutz will know. (n/t) (Lanny DVKK) (10-Jan-01 01:46:51) Re: If I recall right, Marty said that Steve Tims can replace the case saver from 8mm to 10mm (n/t) (Ray Mejia) (10-Jan-01 03:02:37)

WHATS THE MAX BOOST YOU CAN RUN WITH 8MM STUDS???? (n/t) (Panel) (10-Jan-01 11:39:36)

15 or 16 lbs, but it's better to be on the safe side and just go with the 10mm. no matter what (n/t) (Kurt Mezger) (10-Jan-01 21:00:21)

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Re: Head Studs

Wednesday, 10-Jan-01 01:18:56

63.255.53.164 writes:

Mike it was set @ 20lbs of boost but we didt know that till we drove the car down the track (palm dirt) hangover race, c/p is 8:1. I broke the stud and then the head came loose and spark plug wire came off all of this happend at take off!! I was all the way up here so would try to get a mph out of it (allready broken any) I got 101.970 out of 3 cyls, broke stud, loose head ha,ha.

Bobby

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CB Performance Hide-A-Way Turbo EFI Kit Wednesday, 10-Jan-01 13:59:16 61.5.48.201 writes: Thinking about lots of HP with only 2007cc engine I like to get CB's Hide-A-Way Turbo EFI Kit. Anybody knows or have any experience about this kit or have heard anything about it? I'm planning to run on pump gas with around 7psi boost for a daily driver. Thanks. Greg Strader

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CB Performance EFI hideaway blow through is an OK setup, it has its drawbacks. You cant fit too big of a turbo without modification to the apron, i also hae heard minor problems with the oil return line, nothing major. Nice neat kit though. If you want lots of horsepower and got money to spend, i would do a pull through, you can use different types of carbs, dellorto or weber sidedrafts, or a holley. Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions. (n/t) (Anthony S.) (10-Jan-01 20:27:14) well, anyone? anybody have one of these setups? (n/t) (bergboy) (10-Jan-01 20:30:13)

I think Rick M. had or helped install one (per Hot VWs engine manual). (n/t) (Steve Arndt) (11-Jan-01 10:45:52)

Re: I think Rick M. had or helped install one (per Hot VWs engine manual). (Greg Strader) (13-Jan-01 12:56:26)

i have the old dellorto version of the cb performance hideaway turbo kit (LONG) (dan) (11-Jan-01 00:50:54)

Here is more info Dan. . (Steve Arndt) (11-Jan-01 10:50:10)

are you saying to drill and tap idf manifolds for the injectors? (dan) (11-Jan-01 16:24:44)

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bought the entire car with the kit for probably less than the kit costs new... i knew the engine needed a total rebuild, which i did, but now the carbs are leaking slightly(?) at the throttle shaft gaskets under boost... they were totally flooding out while running, i had to buy an aircraft electric fuel gauge($73) to see what's happening under boost... unfortunately i can't get the boost-sensitive fuel regulator to go under 8-8.5 psi at idle, but it has stopped flooding.

so, you really don't want the carbed version of this kit.

what i want to do is get the berg efi manifolds(not the throttle bodies), clyde told me they can modify the throttle shafts for blow-thru applications... the problem will then be hooking it up to the cb intake system, which i think can be accomplished by a competent custom muffler shop.

for instance, i paid $40 for 4 custom 90 degree exhaust pipe pieces that i hooked up from the cb intake to the carb pressure boxes, because i had to run berg linkage... i used hose and clamps between the ends.

one huge drawback is the header system, the i.d. is stock muffler size, which limits the size of the turbo that can be used. the plus is that there is plenty of exhaust back pressure and speed, so the small turbo spools up plenty quick... in other words, my particular configuration is mega streetable if you need a true daily driver... the boost gauge is hooked up about 1" up from the bottom of one intake manifold runner, and it hits 15 psi of boost in a snap.

the real question there may be one of exhaust back pressure vs. boost... for any given turbo application, there is a proper relationship between the two. my header has what looks like a sensor plug just before the collector, so i will be hooking up a boost gauge to it so i can explore this relationship further.

the motor seems to run cold, and even tho it does run way too rich, i'm trying to think out of the all-motor mentality box; i.e., is the boost keeping the heads cool despite the totally restrictive exhaust??

regarding blow-thru vs. draw-thru, there is no question that the former is where all the modern technology is at... but most of the acvw track records are set with the latter... and all the old-skool vw guys will hammer you about how lousy blow-thru is :-) but for me, with a true daily-driven street car that will never see a trailer, blow-thru is worth the added expense... just run efi if possible.

dan

http://www.oceanstreetvideo.com

dan

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CB was AWESOME the one time I ordered. I'm in rural Idaho, ordered from CB Wednesday morning on their web page, and I had my parts by Friday!!!!!!

CBs throttle bodies will work if you don't use their fuel rails. You can just use EFI fuel hose, proper fittings and hose clamps, etc for fuel flow. Build sheet metal brackets to hold the injectors. Chuck on the CLF does this and it works perfectly.

If you use CBs fuel rails with normal manifolds then THEIR fuel rails foul the compartment. If you use the basackwards manifolds then the rails foul the doghouse shroud. Use use normal IDF manifolds, and which up some fuel rails. Stock vanagon 2.0 aircooled fuel rails, clips, etc. should work (although vanagon injectors won't, must be 14mm GM).

Steve

Steve Arndt

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there is no boss area for injectors in idf manifolds... and there isn't enough meat in the manifold wall to support mounting injectors directly... did i misunderstand?

throttle bodies, like the carbs, put the boost and the fuel above the throttle shaft... in other words, the only thing preventing fuel from spilling out into the engine compartment is the cheesy o-rings on the throttle shaft, and they do not last long when exposed to gasoline.

in the case of the dellortos i'm running, the o-rings are fuel/heat(?) hardened... they blow right out of the hole in the carb body and slide out on the throttle shaft under boost... this is applicable to only the center two o-rings, which of course are located outside of the carb body, with no support... but whether it's carb or fuel injection, this is a serious design flaw, because it requires the complete teardown of the throttle shafts after relatively little use, just to replace the o-rings.

if i was looking at the blow-thru idf setup cb now sells, the first thing i'd check is the way that they mounted the o-rings on the throttle shafts... then i'd abandon the idea :-)

as for fuel rails, i seem to remember that they may be necessary in certain hi-fuel-flow situations... but i like the idea of not running 'em, i will look at the chuck approach of putting fuel line directly to the injector... i think that is how tom h. does it with his berg stuff.

thanks for any feedback you can give,

dan

http://www.oceanstreetvideo.com

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I think it was Reilly that was saying something about how just throwing more power into your car doesn`t mean your gunna run faster. Well my SSB 65 Bug was running 11.60s @ 112MPH with my streetable 48 IDA motor. I`ve been driving it to the last couple of DQ DKP meets with my brothers new turbo motor in it. Well we finally got it to the track and ran it today. Guess what? out of 4 passes with the turbo it never broke the old asperated motors best time! 1st I ran it the way I drove it on the street,radials and all. Needless to say it spun so badly out of the gate I had to almost completely pull my foot off the gas pedal before easing back in and running the car down the track lifting a few more times and running a 12.50! Boring!! I drove back into line and when up and ran again, this time trying hard to make a decent pass. After that pass I realized I was making an old mistake. I was reving the motor way too far. Its a turbo motor and it will rev untill you shift but its better to short shift a turbo motor. So the next pass I installed the slicks and put 18LBs in them and decided to run the car by the seat of my pants instead of trying to keep an eye on the tach. The problem was I still had 92 pump gas in it and I (thought I barely tuned up the boost. Wrong! Instead of 5 lbs it was at 10 lbs when I dumped the clutch. The car left good but I heard the noise that we all don`t want to hear. Compression leak. It was just momentary and I lifted and then kept the boost at 5 lbs the rest of the way down the track by back pedaling. I just couldn`t shut it down. I was almost catching the guy in his V8 thing in the next lane. The last pass was great. I put 15 Lbs in the slicks and turned the boost up and poured in some C16 fuel. I launched the car and it spun and yanked the wheels into the air. It came down slightly sideways and I slammed second and it went for the center line. I lifted ,then stabbed the gas again and I heard the heads popping again. Damn!! The boost was at 15 LBs so I lifted and kept it at 10 the rest of the way . I just couldn`t loose to another V8 and I easily beat him with an ailing car. I think I cracked a cylinder the pass before. Oh well. I had one fun pass and the old timers at the track were wearing ear to ear smiles and yelling "Great pass!!" So it just goes to show you just because you add a bunch of power doesn`t guarantee you a faster pass. Of coarse the car pulled super hard but I never got to make a clean pass. It will take a good dyno session and alot of track time before I better my old motors time and speed. Mark H

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Good deal Mark!!! (n/t) (Frenchy Dehoux) (18-Feb-01 02:37:12) Re: Also I saw Phils pastel green early Bug with BRMs. Beautiful machine,and it was sawing off V8s all day running 11.70s!! ( Mark H) (18-Feb-01 02:52:16) Re: Also one of the Bravo burger regulars was there running his Notch back with a blow thru turbo set up...more>> ( Mark h) (18-Feb-01 14:23:26) Sweet!!! Good luck getting it dialed in the rest of the way. Hopefully, I will make it to DQP one of these days to check it out! (n/t) (R. Hodges "Cornbread") (18-Feb-01 03:55:48) Cool, if you go can I ride with you? (n/t) ( James2) (18-Feb-01 12:43:21) OOOuuch!! My buddies' v8s ass still hurts....spanked. (n/t) (Steve S.) (18-Feb-01 04:11:07) Totally awesome, Mark! Hope you didn't hurt the motor too badly...go get 'em! (n/t) (Craig Merrow) (18-Feb-01 08:42:37) It also goes to show you the frailty of a turbo engine,somthing I have been preaching for years."A Turbo is a Tempest in a teapot" They shure are fun though! (n/t) (James Lutz) (18-Feb-01 09:20:43) Good for you Mark! but could you tell me what is the configuration on that turbo engine you drove. Thank you. (n/t) (18-Feb-01 10:02:41) Re: My brother motor is a 76x94 >>> more ( Mark H) (18-Feb-01 13:50:12) Re: This motor was set at 5 lbs of boost and worked and drove fine this way... ( Mark H) (18-Feb-01 13:55:32) Great to see ya back at the track with the SSB Mark ,you should see some tape of the croud in the stands when you make a pass,total disbelief ,using the rear apron for a wheele bar then turning on the win light after running a big tire V8 car "cool" (n/t) (Phil) (18-Feb-01 14:39:16) Mark, I use an .060 copper head gasket and torque the heads to 30 lbs. I have ran as much as 22# of boost with no leakage. Cant beat that third gear grunt of a turbo motor! (n/t) (Marty) (18-Feb-01 17:22:47) Marty I wouldn`t know this time . I couldn`t give it full throttle in third or fourth >> ( Mark H) (19-Feb-01 12:48:34) Re: Mark what size slicks were you running ,I am getting ready to test my car soon with the new motoro (n/t) (ray mejia) (19-Feb-01 03:33:27) Re: Ray your gunna need sme slicks, I heard you new motor puts out some power. ( Mark H) (19-Feb-01 12:41:06)

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Man does that thing leave hard. When you first see it you think ,wow nice Cal looker. Well finished in & out. Then you see the car just shoot off the line and your thinking hey that thing looks fast...real fast.

Phil is running a 2110 with a 75 HP NOS unit and he grabs the button the second he leaves the line.

It really takes alot of people by surprise.

Mark H

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Its a beautiful pearl silver Notch that he took his regular 1904? with a 130 cam and bolted a blowthrough system on it. He fabricated alot of the stuff him self. That big `ol heavy Notch was running 14. Os when I saw it and i`m sure it broke into the 13s that day. This car is a real street car that drives everywhere.

Mark h

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76 bugpack crank wedgrmated. 94 cimas ,power sleeved. 2109cc. 5.235 Porsche length rods.

New factory VW case. Ten mm chromemoly studs.

Had to be clearenced at the top for the powersleeves. Z gap second ring. FK10 engle cam. engle two piece lifters. Manton dual tapered pushrods. CB comp eliminator heads ,ported and reworked. 8.3 compression. 300mm shadec oil pump. scat small sump. 14lb fly wheel with Lowery twin disc clutch. Has 1700 lb kennedy now. Way too much pressure so we will go with a stock clutch. ( remember, two discs) EF60 turbo with 650 Holley and rayjay wastegate. Home built intake . 4 into 1 turbo 1 5/8s header. doghouse fanshroud ,power pulley. MSD distributor with Mallory coil.Timing @20 degrees.

I think turbo motor are the best but they are unforgiving when it comes to too much boost.

We went to the track with what we thought was a conservative set up and then turned the boost up "slightly" Bad move when you don`t know what "slightly "is. One full turn on my rayjay wastegate was much more than I was used to on other wastegates. So the boost level doubled , But I didn`t find that out till second gear when I heard popping. Too late by then ,the damage was done. Anyway Its an easy fix and we`ll dyno the motor this time so we know how much boost and timing we can run with what fuel.

Mark H

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I think It would have been fine with even 6 or 7 lbs of boost on 92 pump gas but when I turned the wastegate ajustment , I went too far and the boost went to 10-11 LBS . thats just too high for an 8.3 to 1 motor on 92 octane.

Mark H

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The reason for the compression leak was that I detonated the motor on 92 pump gas the pass before. It was hurt but I was hoping it wasn`t so I poured in the race fuel ,turned up the boost and went for it. All I heard was that deep popping sound by second gear so I just kept the boost level below the popping sound so I could beat the Chevelle. Good year chevelle though.I think it was 66-67?

Mark H

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I used 8s but my car is way lighter than yours so you could get away with smaller as long as your suspention works right. I think a 7 is as big as you can fit under a ghia anyway. You`ll need the right wheel offset though.

Did you ever change those gears. A 4.37 is just holding you back ,not to mention making things real hard on your motor. Hopefully you`ve got a 3.88 by now. Your turbo motor will love it and you can cruise the freeway too! :-) Good luck,

Mark H