Wheel Hop Thursday, 13-Jul-2000 17:21:48 Message: 63.29.185.98 writes: Okay, i havnt gotten my Traction Bar Yet. Its been on order for ever now. But i dont understand why my car gets so much wheel hop. The front is lowered, i thought that center of gravity and that the weight transfer would be harder to get it all on the back wheels. I thought that would cause the wheels to spin more. NOPE, it still jumping up and down. Its only on stock wheels too. What do you guys think? I dont think the motor is producting more the 110-115 HP. It has the urathane mounts. I was checkin out MufflerMikes site and saw the straps for the rear. What do they do? Would they help my problem? Those and the traction bar? Thank you Billy Moss "HotStreetVw"

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Re: Wheel Hop (Marty) (13-Jul-2000 17:32:20)

Re: If you trasfer towards the rear your car will hook better.Unfortunately better traction will cause wheel hop if everything is able to flex. (n/t) ( Mark H) (13-Jul-2000 18:37:11)

I have designed and built a chassis stiffener that cures all hop better and neater than any on the market. it adresses the problem at the cause [horn flex] and stays on when you remove your motor. its not tied to flimsy body sheetmetal bumper mounts like the others and wont walk off or chafe your engine case .it works with solid or rubber mounting. if theres intrest ill start mfg. them and yes they are TESTED AND GUARANTEED... EMAIL for details [email protected] thanks dennis (n/t) (13-Jul-2000 19:00:09)

I have pictires of how to fix this if anyone wants them. You do need a welder and some fabrication know how but very minor. Tie the shock towers together and triagulate the wishbone off of this. E-mail if you want pics. (n/t) (Marty) (13-Jul-2000 19:15:11)

Re: My car started wheel hopping when I went to 8 inch slicks. So I did the same thing Marty talks about... ( Mark H) (13-Jul-2000 19:31:12)

Mark, I have done this on 1 street car and a Manx without roll cages and did not go through the body. It works great and the car isnt cut up and nobody knows. My turbo bug has them tied into the rollcage. (n/t) (Marty) (14-Jul-2000 00:08:12)

Martys Right (Todd Johnston) (14-Jul-2000 08:44:50)

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Re: Wheel Hop

Thursday, 13-Jul-2000 17:32:20

63.17.94.153 writes:

Wheel hop is caused by the wishbose flexing back and fourth. When the tire slips and then grabs, the wishbone flexes and then starts boucing up and down causing the tires to grip and slip and grip and slip.

The straps are to help keep the axels from tucking if the car gets out of shape and if the weight is unloaded from the rear. These are cheap insurance and a must have in my book.

They probably kept me from rolling at Palmdirt last weekend.

Marty

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Re: My car started wheel hopping when I went to 8 inch slicks. So I did the same thing Marty talks about... Thursday, 13-Jul-2000 19:31:12 216.244.13.117 writes: I went from shock tower to shock tower and then down to the frame horns. I also went through the body to my roll bar from the towers. This made a huge difference and made my car an 11 second street machine. Before I did this my car would actually wheel hop and wheelie at the same time. I am curious if you guys have done this without going through the body up to the roll cage. How does just the connector bar and the bars to the horns work?? Mark H

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Martys Right

Friday, 14-Jul-2000 08:44:50

205.204.152.135 writes:

Martys right. I was looking at my friends oval that he is almost finsihed restoring and this car was a drag car in the 70's. It has this same arrangement that your talking about. I thought it was real trick and the new owner swears it works.

Todd Johnston

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Wheel Hop cure/ wishbone re-inforcement. Friday, 14-Jul-2000 13:31:35 Message: 63.27.108.108 writes: Due to the enormous amount of e-mail that I am getting on the subject, (because I always include my addy)here is a little more detail. Weld in a bar between the two shock towers. This bar also makes a good place to mount things on. Then weld in two bars just in fron of the axels (on the wishbone) up to this cross bar. I then make two brackets that bolt to the rear engine mount. I only use steel mounts. Then weld in two bars going from the crossbar to these brackets. To remove your trans you will need to unbolt the rear mount also but there is just enough room for the axels to slide right out with the trans just like you normally would. If you look at the wishbone from the side, you will see that it is now triangulated vertically to the crossbar. This makes for a very stout "subframe" and will prevent the wishbone from flexing. If you have a rollcage, you can go one step further and run the rear bars down to the crossbar. Now the whole rear of the car is absolutely solid. Tie the front of the cage into the tunnel behid the beam or to the beam and you can now pass any NHRA tech if properly welded up with the right tubing. I will have my website up within a few weeks and I will have pics and stuff on how to do this. Marty

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You can also buy the CUP braces in Germany that do the same thing. John Plow will have some pics soon to post that will show my setup with the rear coilover shocks that I installed. (n/t) (Alex)[email protected] (14-Jul-2000 14:42:18)

Cool. I would like to see that. (n/t) (Marty) (14-Jul-2000 14:52:14)

Re: Wheel Hop cure/ wishbone re-inforcement. (TOM YATES) (14-Jul-2000 21:22:16)

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