14mm press in stud questions. Wednesday, 31-Jan-01 21:53:14 207.77.58.19 writes: Hey guys, I just got my Ercos today...very sweet. I also ordered some 14mm SAW press in studs, and was wondering what the correct procedure is on installing them. What size do I drill the drums out to? (stock drums purchased new for my buggy.) Should I ream them...or just drill em out? I have access to a Bridgeport milling machine, and a hydralic press...so I plan on doing this myself. Just need to know the correct procedure. :) Also those of you who did this yourself..how did you actually pick up each hole? I think it may be a bit difficult with the threads in the hole to indicate them in. Did you stick a gauge pin in them or something to indicate them in? Thanks in advance. Jay Boudreau Jay Boudreau

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You need to use the gage pin to help locate. Ream the hole to ensure corect diameter, and be sure to spot face the seating surface on the inside of the drum. (n/t) (RobT) (31-Jan-01 22:03:47) I did a set once the "caveman" way on a drillpress. I don't remember exactly what the size of the bit was, but it was intended to create an interferance fit, so , it was just slightly smaller than the knurled shank on the stud. I just lined the bit on the hole, and punched it through. This wasn't difficult, but make sure the drum can move a little bit, but not grab and turn freely on the drillpress. then, I pressed the studs through with a typical shop press. These drums were run on D. Berg's car in Vegas, so I know they worked pretty good. (n/t) (bugly) (01-Feb-01 00:44:19) I did almost the same thing with a hand drill and then got the studs started with a socket extension and a hammer. I mounted up a junk rim with anti-sieze under the lug nut and torqued the nuts down pulling the studs into place. What did I learn from all of this? Not to buy Mexican drums whose lug bolt threads strip out the first time you even attempt to tighten them down. But I can say that it worked for me. eom (n/t) (mikeb) (01-Feb-01 10:37:14) I did a set for my drag manx with my machinist buddy.Used a gauge pin to center , and spot faced the inner side of drum,and just pressed them in.The spot facing was necessary.. (n/t) (Art Gumpfer) (01-Feb-01 01:23:20) Re: why wouldnt you use the screw in studs? (n/t) (RobK) (01-Feb-01 06:48:32) Re: Re: why wouldnt you use the screw in studs? (Muffler Mike) (01-Feb-01 11:57:31) Re: 14mm press in stud questions. (Muffler Mike) (01-Feb-01 12:02:06) Re: Re: 14mm press in stud questions. (John Palmer) (01-Feb-01 20:28:25) SAW will give you the correct ream size. I have cracked a drum with the press. Use a hammer and anti-sieze. (n/t) (M. Notary) (01-Feb-01 19:52:35)

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You could, but they are not as strong a set up as a pressed in stud would be.

I could be wrong, maybe they are making the screw in stud with the sheer strenth as a press in? Another though is if i am not mistaken, the threads on a drum are only 12mm. so are the screw in studs all 12mm or 12 with a step to 14?

the press in studs are all 14mm or what ever size you want if you move away from the SAW.

Plus if you plan to run slicks at a track, tech will require a pressed in studs.

Muffler Mike

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On the Erco rims, the holes are done pretty tight as you will find out. on mine the knurls on my studs do protude past the surface of the drum and i will be reaming out the inside half to about a .470"ish. just something to keep in mind.

Muffler Mike

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We had our type III rear drums done at FAT Performance. They used 14mm Porsche studs. Greg gave me the studs to take home and I cut down the "no thread" portion of the shoulder with some additional threads so that the 14mm lug nuts would thread all the way down to the drum. I also ground the knurled shoulder of the stud back just a little bit so it did not pultrude into the rim lug hole after the drums were spot faced on the back side.

This system now works perfect with our original BRM's with BRM lug nuts and also works with the race wheels (DDS and ERCO's) and 14mm bus "ball type" lug nuts.

Have Fun

John Palmer